Any tour of Wan Chai should take in this homely little temple, tucked away a couple of minutes' walk from Queen's Road East. 

Built during the 1860s, the temple, its facade blackened from years of incense burning, is dedicated to Pak Tai, a military god invoked to bring peace. A 17th-century copper statue of the god, adorned with real hair and richly embroidered clothes, sits on a throne at the heart of the temple. Flanking him stand four statues representing scholars and warriors. 

Be sure to peek into the main room off the temple, home to craftsmen making traditional paper and bamboo burial offerings, exquisite little models designed to represent objects the deceased might require in the afterlife. They are also intended as a reflection of the wealth and prestige he or she enjoyed in life. Although the tradition is centuries old, these days the models are likely to include such things as Rolls-Royces, portable phones and video recorders. The models are collected and burnt at the funeral to accompany the deceased to heaven.