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| Attraction-The Stone
City of Chongwu |
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Whenever
their menfolk set out to sea, the women come to the
pier to see them off and wish them a safe journey.
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Chongwu is quite literally a world of granite.
From any tower on the city walls, one can see the grey town
and its stone houses. Most of the roofs, though, are covered
with red tiles, which give the place a touch of gaiety.
I left the outskirts of the ancient city and sauntered into
the heart of the little stone town. All the walls, even those
encircling wells, were made of granite. Colourful articles
of daily use hung from the lintel of a huge window, which
was framed in stone blocks neatly piled together.
Granite is obviously an integral part of the life of the Chongwu
people. In fact, the technique of stone cutting and the art
of stone carving are passed from one generation to the next,
and both stoneware and stone
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A
Hui'an woman makeing fishing nets on the beach.
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ornaments produced here are exported to other
countries. Looking at a fine stone incense burner, I seemed
to see before me a picture of the Chongwu people, chiselling
their days away amidst piles of stone.
The unusual attire of the Hui'an women who live here has prompted
anthropologists to study the city's past. The southern area
of Fujian used to be inhabited by the ancient people of Baiyue,
who, isolated by the area's unique geographical position, were
never assimilated into Han culture. As a result, some aspects
of their own particular life style and customs have been
preserved. The women still cover their heads with scarves as
well as bamboo hats, but leave |
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Uniquely
carved stoneware are one of Chongwu's specialties.
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their navels exposed by wearing short, twill
tops, an outfit teasingly described as "feudal head and democratic
belly". Long hair, perfume and high-heeled shoes are seldom
seen here.
It is not that Chongwu people have adopted a conservative outlook
as adamant as the granite world around them, but that they are
faithful to their traditions. It may also be a matter of a different
concept towards beauty, such as adorning the back of their heads
with colourful ornaments, or wearing immaculate clothes, silver
bracelets and elaborate ornaments even when feeding the chickens!
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The
women here still retain many traditional customs
from Hui'an.
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Residents
of Chongwu start learning how to work with stone
at an early age.
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