Hubei cooking is characterized by its slow-streamed or braised dishes flavored with light sauces, and, along then Yangtze at least, the use of fish and shellfish. 

Wuhan itself excels in good food, and local dishes include: 'flower' shaomai, where the dumpling corners are drawn up into five little pockets and filled with different-colored stuffings; hot and dry noodles, flavored with a sesame-paste sauce; laotongcheng, bean-paste omeletter; and medicinal soups made by the long and gentle stewing of fried chicken with seasonings.

There are so many fish dishes that restaurants specialize in them - most famous are Wuchang fish and Brown-sauce fish, both braised in distinctive stocks.

For something a bit cheaper, try the back streets through the old concession area of Hankou, where you'll find a gathering of nondescript, good-value restaurants and food stalls.

The train stations at Hankou and Wuchang also have some surprisingly good budget places, serving mostly vegetable and fish dishes.